
The
backwaters of Kerala are what have given it the sobriquet "God's Own Country".
As you meander through these on a houseboat you drift into a timeless land replete
with picture-postcard towns and ancient trading posts. The huge coconut trees
provide an apt backdrop and perhaps you can even eavesdrop on the strains of
an oarsman's song.
Quilon
Backwaters
Quilon is nestled among cashew plantations and red-roofed wooden
house set among winding streets. It has Portuguese and Dutch and English influences.
The boat cruise here consists of passing through the cashew processing factories.
There are lots of birds to watch out for - Brahminy kites, egrets, kingfishers,
and bee-eaters. You can tickle your taste buds with some sumptuous seafood.
Prawn farming, fish catching, copra drying and matchstick making are the main
occupations here.
After the cruise you can get off at the Government Guest house at Ashtamudi
center by the water's edge. There are large Chinese pickle jars, old lithographs
of British times, old willow pattern plates that give you feel of its past.
Matha Restaurant near the jetty is really cheap and serves up spiced chicken
to the local laborers. Jala Subhiksha is Kollam's floating restaurant. The KTDC
Yatri Niwas is a great riverside hotel with a pleasant water front lawn. Palm
Lagoon is an idyllic resort offering cottages on the shores of Ashtamudi Lake.
There are more backwater tours and ayurvedic massages.
Kollam is well serviced by road and rail. Seats in express buses must be reserved
in advance, otherwise seats are a problem. Super express Services take11/2 hours
to Thiruvanathapuram and a littl e longer to Allapuzha. The Trivandrum Mail
from Chennai goes through Kollam as does the Mumbai to Kanyakumari Express and
the Mangalore to Thiruvannathapuram coastal service. For a wonderfully relaxing
trip across the Western Ghats, take the Quilon Express.
Alappuzha Backwaters
The Alappuzha area is a place that coaxes you to let your hair down.
The canals here form a web that serves the coir industry. There is nothing much
here by way of sightseeing, but if you plan your trip around the second Saturday
of August each year, you'll be in time for the Nehru Cup snakeboat race, an
adrenaline-pumping local event.
Low slung chundan vellams or snake boats are decorated and it is rowed by up
to 100 people. Alappuzha is known for its lazy cruises where you can float looking
at the palm trees reflected in the green cool waters.
Kottayam Backwaters

The other major place here that you must visit is Kottayam, focus
for the Syrian Christians of India, and also the heart of rubber production.
Kottayam's backwater cruise is shorter than Allapuzha's. There are elegant Syrian
Christian churches that date back to antiquity - some are more than 500 years
old. The Kumarakom bird sanctuary on Vembanad Lake is 16km west of Kottayam
in a rubber plantation of yore. Waterfowl and other species can be spotted as
they flutter about here.
Several luxury resorts have opened here. The Coconut Lagoon resort is really
beautiful and scenic. The 50-cottage Kumarakom Lake Resort, exquisitely landscaped
with 20-foot wide lotus filled canals, has recently been classified under the
Heritage category. The luxury Taj resort and the Kumarakom Tourist Village are
extremely popular with the western jet set including Hollywood actors. Buses
run regularly from Kottayam to Kumarakom.
Aranmula Backwaters
As you take a cruise do make it a point to go to Changanacherry and
from there to Aranmula near Kottayam. You can enroll at the art village, Vijnana
kala Vedi center, to learn woodcarving, dance, martial arts like Kalaraipayattu,
and traditional medicine. You can fashion your own course though one month's
training is preferred.
You can take in an authentic all-night Kathakali performance at Thiruvalla.
There are daily cruises from the Alleppey Tourist Development Corporation on
alternate days. Many hotels in Komala Road Allapuzha book these. Cruises some
of them by private operators start at 10.30 a.m. and reach by 6.30 p.m. The
two stops are a midday lunch stop and a brief tea stop at Ayirmthengu or the
coir village a mandatory stop.
Amrithapuri Backwaters
Boats also drop you off at the Mata Amritanandamayi Mission at Amrithapuri,
the headquarters of Amritanandamayi Ma, the female mystic. Some opt to stay
here. The Kumarakody temple is also en route as is the Karumadi Kuttan Buddha
image on the bank of the canal.

The
cruise between Alappuzha and Kottayam is short at 41/2 hours. You can step off
to sample some toddy, potter among the snake boats and visit an old church in
Pulicunnu. Raiban Shopping Complex at the Boat Jetty Road.
The locals prefer to use public ferries that are cheap and crowded. The trip
to Kottayam crosses Vembanad Lake and a green canal. Changanassery is on the
road -rail line and Changannassery is on the road. The DTPC also runs a popular
four-hour cruise, which departs from Allapuzha at 10 am and returns at 2 pm.
Many people prefer this shorter trip to a full day on a boat. It also navigates
some of the narrower waterways.